Say ‘Russia’ and most people hear ‘cold’. Cold war, communism and harsh winter-- till just about a decade back, these were reasons enough to make it a not-so-preferred destination among travelers. But, having lived in the new Russia as an expatriate Indian for the past two years, my old impressions have changed entirely. Discovering the warmth of a nation labeled cold, too long can seem difficult at first, but immensely enriching thereafter.

 The new Russia has an Americanized veneer. More and more young Russians speak English and are exposed to Hollywood and American stars. In larger cities like St. Petersburg and Moscow, you can even manage well without learning Russian. But if you must stay long, learning the language is rewarding since you can converse with locals, explore smaller towns, understand cultural events and also get along undaunted with daily life. A Russian phrase book and dictionary are a must initially, and thereafter you can work to build your vocabulary. The best method to do that is by interacting with the locals. For formal classes you can enroll in the Center of Russian Language and Culture (www.crlc.pu.ru) that offers courses ranging from two to forty-two weeks. Despite being a sincere student however, there may be occasions when you communicate at stores or social circles in a bee-like-dance or a comic dumb charade sequence. It is also not uncommon to experience the sinking feeling that follows after you muddle up saying spaseeba (Thank you), when you actually meant Izhvinithe (Sorry).

Not to worry. The average Russian would not mind your muddling and will keenly help you learn their language and customs. I found that most Russians living in cities are refined, dignified and also helpful. Babushkas (elderly woman), in particular, go out of their way to help you with directions or information. In smaller towns, people may appear gruff since their main occupations are farming, hunting and fishing. But beneath their exteriors they are actually simple humans with large hearts, who offer you a fresh catch from their fishing rods or potatoes dug fresh from their farm. When you try to blend in, and show eagerness in learning about the their customs, culture and folklores, you find that people laud your efforts and reciprocate well.

 St Petersburg, the city that I spent most part of my life here, is undoubtedly beautiful, with its sculptural and architectural masterpieces, gardens and parks. It also has an impressive history and numerous cultural events through the year. Ballets, operas, concerts and puppet shows are the windows to the wealth of culture that is Russia. Museums and art galleries abound. Monuments are remarkable for their aesthetics and as for museums, ranging from ethnography, music and war, to doll, bread and chocolate, museums form a part of almost every street.

 Unlike some northern parts of Russia, St Petersburg is not cold through the year. Autumn and spring are mildly cold, bordering on pleasant and summers can be hot, at 32-33 degrees. In summers (May-July), the city and its environs look stunning with bountiful of nature’s colors. At this time, you can also enjoy the white nights, a phenomenon in which the daylight continues through the night and the night shrinks into oblivion. White nights occur in St Petersburg, due to it’s northern position. This peak tourist season is celebrated with numerous cultural events and festivities. Travelers who wish to avoid the summer crowd usually visit in autumn (Oct-Nov), when temperatures are comfortable and trees with red and yellow leaves look like flames leaping to the sky.

Adapting to the cold

Expatriates facing the Russian winters for the first time are unusually well prepared and often wonder as to what the big fuss is about. It is only when temperatures dip to minus 25-30 degrees that one realizes what a freezing experience it really is -- teeth become overtly sensitive, frost forms in the nostrils, eyes water, cheeks go numb and cold ruthlessly cuts through layers of clothing to your skin. To survive Russian winters it is best to buy Russian made quilted jackets, wool-lined shoes, fur cots and caps, since they provide the maximum protection. Indoors though, are usually warm. Most buildings are centrally heated or fitted with room heaters to keep interiors at comfortably warm temperatures. Other winter hazards include road accidents due to ice on the roads. Pedestrians also face increased risk of fractures and injuries, since walking on ice can be quite a balancing act!

Despite its severity, life goes on as normal – people go outdoors, mothers walk their babies and children go to school skating in ice most of their way. Russians enjoy their winters by indulging in winter sports such as ice-skating, skiing and fishing. Accompanying fishermen as they walk on frozen sea or a river can be quite an experience. Since it is hazardous, it’s best to accompany only experienced fishermen on their routine fishing camps. In preparation, you need to wear highly protective leather jackets and knee high snow boots. On finding their spot, they drill the ice manually, and lower their baits to the waters below. Drinks, chat and an endless wait follow. Enormous amounts of patience and acclimatizing are required for this activity, but for them it like a picnic they look forward to every winter. After a long day, the catch may number two, but that doesn’t seem to matter; it is just the bi-product of the party! On any winter day look on from the banks. Fishermen scattered on frozen water, look like little black dots on a white sheet of paper.

Russians are fond of their pradzniks (festivals), but they are more of a family affair than a loud commercial venture. Any season or reason, Vodka flows copiously. Vodka is such an inseparable part of Russian life that its name originates from the Russian word for water ‘Vada’. In summers it adds a zing to the celebrations and in winters, it additionally helps to trounce the cold.

Festivals are followed as per the Julian calendar. So Christmas is celebrated on 7 Jan. Ded Moroz, Grandfather Frost looks very much like the western Santa Claus except that he wears a blue suit. New year, men’s day, women’s day, Labor Day and more – each is an occasion for feasts and fun. Maslyanitsa (in Feb) that celebrates the end of winters is especially interesting since it is a bliny festival. Bliny, as per tradition depicts the sun -- round, hot and golden. 

 For an expatriate, living in Russia can be high on the financial index. Rates levied on foreigners for museum visits, theatres, boat trips and schools are approximately five times of what a Russian pays. Expatriate students and government servants are exempted from this if they possess a propusk (a document that states that you work or study in Russia).Expect to face some red tape bureaucracy, as corruption is almost official!

There are no organized expatriate communities in St Pete. Networking usually happens from workplace or expatriate owned restaurants. Chinese, Indian, Lebanese to Japanese, expatriate owned restaurants are aplenty. For a familiar feel though, you can settle for the good ole Mc Donald’s, Pizza Hut or KFC. Bistros (fast food joints) mostly offer Russian cuisine. Chainaya Loshka is a popular fast food chain, where among other things you can enjoy blinys and borsch (traditional cabbage soup). The Lebanese shwerma is always high on demand and easily available. Among expatriates, Ikra (caviar) arouses most curiosity but not everyone finds it the yummiest food right away. Pelminis (meat filled dumplings) on the other hand, are all time favorites.

In smaller towns, you can comfortably make a meal of pirozh (stuffed bun), grilled meat, kachapuri (large cheese filled buns) or ponchiki (donuts). Traveling to surrounding villages and towns is easy. If you have an international driving license, you can even drive. The Russian landscapes are beautiful through the year and are sure to make an unforgettable picture in your inner eye.

There is also a downside of being an Asian expatriate in St Petersburg. ‘Skin-heads’ target people with dark skin and beat them up without reason. Most attacks are reported around the time of white nights especially around May 20(Hitler’s Birthday). It’s best to take precaution and avoid being alone at night. Also watch out for pickpockets who operate mostly on crowded streets and metro stations.    

Expatriates are of two types. The first types take their world with them and live comfortably among their expatriate peers. The second types try to make contact with the land, the people and their ways, and in doing so add a wealth of experiences to their lives. Battering many blues and odds, I made a successful transition from crisp dosas to sumptuous blinys. The problem now is, I will miss the blinys!